Exploring Mull
Walking the coasts, hills and among history on the isles of Mull, Ulva, Staffa and Iona
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Griburn on Mull from the Isle of Ulva
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Mull is one of the largest of the Hebridean islands but is bitten into by so many sea lochs that the sight and sound of salt water is never far away. This makes for a long coastline. With high cliffs, sandy or rocky bays, caves and arches there is always something to draw you on around the next corner.
The island is divided into north and south by a narrow waist of land at Salen. The southern half has a core of dramatic hill country culminating in 3169 feet (966 metres) high Ben More. To the west the lower peninsula of the Ross of Mull runs out almost to touch St. Columba's holy island of Iona. Northern Mull holds the island's tiny 'capital' of Tobermory (= Mary's Well). The northern scenery is a stepped landscape of lava flows from eruptions of around 50 million years ago. The cliffed edges of these flows give numerous waterfalls, some falling straight to the sea out on which, to the west, lie the lava islands of Staffa, Treshnish and Ulva.
History
Mull has a population of about 3,000 in round figures, but in the nineteenth century it once stood at 10,000. Clearly, you might think, the island has seen considerable change and you would be right.
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Basalt columns on the Isle of Staffa
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From very long ago, a few Stone age and more Bronze age remains survive, including a stone circle. From the turbulent Iron age there are fortified duns and brochs (stone towers) while still later times give us the medieval castles that paid tribute to the Macdonald Lords of the Isles and afterwards to the MacLeans and the Campbells. The nineteenth century saw major changes to both people and landscape, with the story of the clearances still to be seen today in the many ruined townships. While Exploring Mull we'll see much of this history in its context.
Wildlife
We'll also see a wealth of wildlife. Herds of red deer abound in the hills, which they share with mountain hare. Common and grey seals can be seen frequently in the coastal waters. Otters are harder to see in Britain, but Mull is one of the best places, whether on its quiet shores or by lonely hill lochs. The south coast has feral goats, sometimes detectable by their smell! Sea birds are a feature, of course: guillemots and razorbills, cormorants, fulmars and many others. Inland lochans can hold red-throated divers, while, in summer, the hill ridges and moors have golden plover, curlew and skylark. If you are lucky you might see a golden eagle or the even bigger sea eagle - neither is certain, but Mull is one of the likeliest parts of Scotland in which to see both of these magnificent birds. In one unforgettable moment in 2006, a group saw a golden eagle and a sea eagle fight in the air right above them.
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The programme day by day
A typical week, subject to variables such as the weather and any alterations to take account of lambing and deer stalking, could be as follows:
Saturday
Meeting in Glasgow, travel to Oban and ferry to Mull.
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Teshnish Isles
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Sunday: Treshnish
A northwest Mull headland, opposite the Treshnish Isles. Abandoned townships; high cliffs and waterfalls; a quiet shore below a raised beach; caves, including one once used as the site of an illicit still, and stunning views to sea and islands.
8 miles / 750 feet (13 km / 230 metres.
Monday: Ulva
An island close to Mull's western shore, for centuries the traditional home of the McQuarries. Mature mixed woodland and parkland around the big house near the ferry give way to the wilder west end of the island. The south shore leads to the McQuarries' burial ground and a tangle of little islands and bays.
11 miles / 1500 feet (two-thirds on track or path) (18 km / 450 metres).
Tuesday: Grass Point
We move to the Ross of Mull for the rest of our holiday. On the way south we visit Grass Point. Historically pilgrims destined for Iona landed at Grass Point opposite Kerrera, and in season may have encountered cattle being driven to the point to be swum in the opposite direction on their journey to the mainland trysts. Now it is a good place for wildlife like dolphins, porpoises, otters, white tailed sea eagles and other raptors.
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Waiting for the ferry, Isle of Ulva
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Wednesday: Carsaig
West of Carsaig we will explore the great cliffs that guard this side of the island. Since they’re fringed with a raised beach platform, we can walk below them in some places and enjoy the wide views from their tops in others. Red deer and feral goats share the screes below the cliffs and the wide grassy spaces above them. Away to the south and east are the hills of Jura and mainland Argyll.
9 to 11 miles/1000 to 1500 feet ascent (14 to 18 km and 300 to 460 m).
Thursday: Staffa and Iona
We will take a boat to Staffa. This is a beautiful, unhabited island, between May and the end of July home of hundreds of seabirds, including them puffins. The island is best known for its magnificent basalt columns. Their effect is most overwhelming at An Uamh Binn (musical Cave) or, as it is more commonly known Fingal's Cave, which has enthralled and inspired travellers for hundreds of years.
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| Iona Abbey |
From Staffa, we will sail to Iona. Many people make the pilgrimage to Columba's Isle. We will explore the abbey and the nearby
buildings with Celtic and Viking remains, and then, we will walk to the quieter south and west of the island where we will explore pebble beaches, beaches with pure white sand and an old marble quarry.
We'll have time to see the abandoned marble quarry, with its beautiful white and green stone, and the Carn Cuil ri Eirinn. This place (the Gaelic means 'Cairn of the back to Ireland') is said to mark the spot where, above his landing place (now known as St. Columba's Bay), the saint decided that he had journeyed far enough from Ireland to put his chequered past behind him and begin a new life.
Up to 7 miles (11 km) with lots of little ups and downs, but anyone preferring a really gentle afternoon could choose to amble quietly over the short turf backing the island's western and northern beaches.
Friday: Ben More
The highest hill on any Scottish island other than Skye (the name means simply big mountain), Ben More's central position as much as its height makes it worth climbing if the day is clear. The simplest approach is from Loch na Keal, to the north, with two or three options from that direction.
7 miles / 3169 feet (11 km / 966 metres).
If the weather is against us, there are plenty of lower level options that we haven't seen. For example the tidle isle of Erraid off the south western tip of the Ross of Mull. It can be reached on foot at low tide. For those who have read 'Kidnapped' by Robert Louis Stevenson, Erraid is the island where the shipwrecked David Balfour spent four wet and miserable days living off shelfish, because he did not realise that the island was tidal. From the highest point there are very good views back to Mull, Iona and on a clear day to Jura, Scarba and the mainland.
Mull is a big, beautiful and varied island. You should be warned that you may want to come back!
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View from the top of Ben More
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Saturday:
Depart a.m. for Oban and Glasgow.
Am I fit enough?
The emphasis of the week is on enjoyment, so no-one should worry too much, providing they take exercise fairly regularly: you aren't in a race. Daily distances vary from 6 to 11 miles (10 to 18 km), plus an ascent of anything from a few hundred feet to 1500 feet (457 metres) or so (more on the last day). Some of the ascents are steep, but need not be rushed. Age is not a problem if you are fit and used to country walking / hiking.
As with much of the walking in this part of the world, you will meet some rough country each day, but equally each day will have some path, and some days have quite a lot. Ben More, with a climb of 3169 feet (966 metres) is quite a demanding finish, but the distance is only about 7 miles (11 km), so it's just a question of keeping on slowly and admiring the views.
Accommodation
As with all About Argyll's holidays, this will be in carefylly selected accommodation, either a B&B or a hotel, as you prefer. You can rely on the quality of the accommodation that we find for you - its comfort, its food and the welcoming nature of those who run it.
Details of where you will be staying will be sent to you well in advance of your holiday.
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Tobermory, Isle of Mull
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Clothing and equipment
You will need to bring boots with a good tread that provide adequate ankle support, warm clothing, waterproofs (top and over-trousers) and a rucksack big enough for your spare clothes, a packed lunch and whatever else you normally like to have with you (binoculars, a camera, etc.). Boots are especially important. They don't have to be particularly heavy, but wearing ultra lightweight ones may mean your feet get wet and trainers definitely aren't adequate nor, on some of the rougher and steeper going, however short it may be, are they safe.
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Dates and prices for 2008
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Description
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8 days (Saturday to Saturday), accommodation on Mull in Tobermory (3 nights) and in Fionnphort (4 nights) in carefully selected B&B or hotel.
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Walks
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6-11 miles (10-18 km) daily, with a mix of rough going and path. Four days with longer walks and two gentler days.
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Code
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Date
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B&B
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Hotel
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Comments
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| EM1 |
31 May - 7 June |
£690.00 |
£900.00
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single room supplement:
B&B £50.00
hotel £100.00
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| EM2 |
19-26 July |
| EM3 |
6-13 September |
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Groups of 4 or more may be able to book for other dates. Please ask.
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Grasspoint, Isle of Mull
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The price includes:
- The services of our well-qualified, well-informed and welcoming guide
- Small groups - usually between 4 and 8
- An attractive, well-thought-out walking programme
- Carefully selected accommodation - B&B or hotel (double/twin room) - plus picnic lunches on walking days
- Transport by minibus and ferries, as needed, throughout your holiday, including evenings and from/to Glasgow/Glasgow airport at its beginning and end
- Entrance fee to museums, if visited
- Get-togethers to set the scene for the next day
For full details on booking and insurance, please click here.
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